Tuesday, March 31, 2020

Miller Peak via Miller Canyon with Sadie and Zeke

Distance: 11,9 miles
Elevation gain: 3809'
Significance: Vistas, old mines, and wanting a physical challenge

Today was my last chance to bag a peak for the month.  I had wanted to do this hike yesterday, but got carried away with other things around the house.  I decided to bag Miller Peak via Miller Canyon, since I did the Crest Trail in January and Lutz Canyon last month.  This is a long and difficult trail not for the weak of heart.

I started the hike shortly after 10am.  I wanted the heat to warm up the trail so that the dogs weren't too cold, and to let any snow or ice to soften by the time I got there.  This was a wise decision on my part, but it did require a late start and late finish.  I never felt energized, though, and the pants I wore were too big for me and kept sliding down my waist.

I don't even remember the last time I hiked up Miller Canyon.  I took my time getting reacquainted with the trail and the landscape, walking along the stream and the old homestead and enjoying the sounds of the cascading creek.  So much of the creekbed here has been destroyed by crashing boulders from the floods of 2011 and 2015 that have now piled up where once small rocks lay.  I had hiked this trail with Kevin, Beth and Ellen over the years.  Both Sadie and Zeke were pups.  Today they were visibly slower and more eager to lay down and rest.

Even before the 2011 fire, this canyon was a steep one, and the trail rated as hard.  This rating hasn't changed.  I knew what I was getting into, but how much has the canyon changed since my last hike up here in 2012?  I wanted to find out.

There is a lot of history in Miller Canyon.  Sadly so much got destroyed in the 2011 Monument Fire and this fire and flood damage is visible from all part of this hike, from the trail head all the way up to the peak.

Abandoned mines still dot the trails, but they are closed off or buried by landslides.  The wide mining trail that ascended for two miles up the canyon was badly eroded in the flood after the 2011 fire.  The larger rocks have been pushed off the trail, but it's now a singletrack trail covered with rocks. Flash floods have cut secondary crevices in side canyons. Burned trees and snags now litter the canyon bed.  New growth is slowly taking over, but it will be another 20 years before this canyon has healed and I won't be around to see it.

Sadie and Zeke were by my side the entire time.  There weren't any animals for them to get interested in anyway, and when a young fawn sprinted across the trail, I just had to yell out their names for them to heel and return to me. I never had to use the leashes.  I had a slow but steady pace and stopped a lot to take photographs.  There were no birders in the lower half, and also no birds until I got to the Crest Trail and I could see and hear falcons.

The worst part about the start of this hike is putting up with the barking hound dogs that live at Beatty's Orchard at the end of Miller Canyon Road.  They were not pleased with my dogs' presence. Today we also had the scent of skunk in the first mile.  The second mile gets very steep, but near the third mile the views open up.  This Orchard also took a beating in the fire.  The owners never left their home.  Their property along Miller Creek was badly uprooted and burned, but the buildings all survived.


While there were cars in the parking lot, I didn't see anyone on the trail until I got to the Bathtub Springs four miles uphill.  A homesteader dragged that tub up the canyon by mule.  When he left the area, he left the tub behind. It's now become an icon.  The bathtub is now cracked and doesn't hold water like it once did, but water still flows from the pipe.  I came across five men during this hike.


I was surprised to see little snow left.   Our last rain was March 19th and that left snow on the north slopes of the mountains, but apparently that didn't leave enough. The snow around Miller Peak has melted.  The only snow left is now on the Crest Trail between Bathtub Springs and Miller Peak.  The original snow mound from early January had reached the edge of the trail and traversing this section was treacherous.  I or the dogs could easily have fallen.  Despite all that snow earlier this year, there were no wildflowers. The ground had been choked by snow for too long. Everything still looked a drab brown, grey and dark green.



The bathtub at the four-mile mark is a nice place to rest, eat, and watch birds.  The first hiker was coming down as I was sitting by the tub shortly after 1pm.  I stayed seated because of my baggy pants. ""You always meet someone at the tub!" he said.  And why not?  There is shade, level ground...good enough to camp for the night.  I drank my water, ate some tangerines, gave the dogs some chicken jerky strips, and continued the last two miles refreshed.  By now sunny skies had changed to light overcast skies.

I stopped at the bathtub on the return hike as well and noticed a painted rock with "Petey" on it, a rock donated by "Sierra Vista Rocks," a group of artists that paint rocks and then place them along hiking trails.  Finders are to log on to the Sierra Vista Rocks website on Facebook and let the painters know the rocks were discovered.  Finders can either take the rock and hide it somewhere else, or leave it where it was found.

We made it to the peak shortly after 3pm.  It took me five hours for the six miles! I sat briefly by a new solar-powered weather vane that was not here last month. By now the sky was overcast, but the winds were calm.  I wanted to sit on the peak and just enjoy the views, but I knew I couldn't stay long.  I wanted to be back at the car by 6pm.  I descended at 3:20pm and got back to the car by 6pm. So I did achieve my goal, but a visiting woman from Utah out looking for land to buy came up me in the parking lot to ask me about this area.  She wants to buy a house in Ramsey or Carr Canyon off a dirt road and flew down from Salt Lake City this morning just to look at homes for sale.  I'm not sure that either canuon is the safest place to live, especially with our fires and floods, but she is serious about buying something here and I'm sure she will find something.

On my way out of Miller Canyon, NPR reported a 6.5 earthquake outside of Boise, Idaho.  Yikes.  It is Idaho's strongest quake in 37 years  The western states have been rumbling lately: Salt Lake City and El Paso had smaller quakes late in March.  Wonder where and when the next one will be.



It was nice to be up the canyon again.  It had been too long and I had forgotten some of the sites. It's sad to see all the fire damage everywhere, but despite the damage from the fire and flood, there is still a lot of beauty here.   Many of the burned and downed trees from 2011 have fallen down the hillsides and are collecting in the creekbed.  The trees are clearing from the hillsides but now crowding the creek.  New growth is bright green. In a a few more months new flowers will dot the hillsides.

I'm glad I did Miller Canyon trail again, but I doubt I'll be doing it any time soon like Carr Peak. This steep grade really demoralizes one's ego and tires both body and mind.  Both dogs were exhausted when I got home and I made sure they had double portions for their meal.  Both slept soundly all night. No whining from Sadie!

https://www.idahostatesman.com/news/local/community/boise/article241668106.html

Monday, March 30, 2020

Stay Home, Stay Healthy, Stay Connected

Governor Greg Ducey passed his "Stay Home, Stay Healthy, Stay Connected" order that limits citizens' movement to essential movement only.  Restaurants and bars are already closed, so this isn't going to affect me much.  The only difference now is that travel is curtailed.  My trip up to Sedona won't happen now until this order is lifted at the end of April.

https://azgovernor.gov/governor/news/2020/03/stay-home-stay-healthy-stay-connected

***

Reported cases and deaths

The figures below are based on data from state and county health departments. These numbers are updated every 10 minutes but may differ from other sources due to differences in reporting times. For up-to-the-minute updates, follow our live coverage.
Cases…per 100KDeaths
New York66,4973421,218
New Jersey16,636187198
Michigan6,49865184
California5,76315135
Massachusetts5,7528356
Florida5,6952770
Illinois5,0574073
Washington4,89664217
Pennsylvania4,0873248
Louisiana4,02587185
Georgia3,03229102
Texas2,8771038
Colorado2,6274651
Connecticut2,5717236
Ohio1,9331739
Tennessee1,8342713
Indiana1,7862735
North Carolina1,498148
Maryland1,4132315
Virginia1,2501527
Wisconsin1,2212123
Arizona1,1571620
Nevada1,0443417
Missouri1,0311713
Alabama9491913
South Carolina9251818
Mississippi8472816
Utah806254
Oregon6061416
Minnesota5761010
Arkansas508177
District of Columbia495709
Oklahoma4811217
Kentucky4801111
Iowa424136
Idaho415237
Rhode Island408394
Kansas368138
New Hampshire314233
New Mexico281134
Maine275203
Delaware264277
Vermont2564112
Puerto Rico23978
Hawaii204140
Montana177174
Nebraska15583
West Virginia14581
Alaska119163
North Dakota109143
South Dakota101111
Wyoming95160
Guam582
US Virgin Islands300
Northern Mariana Islands20
American Samoa00
Repatriations1520

Sunday, March 29, 2020

West Hunter Canyon mines

It was early afternoon and I get a text from Ellen asking if I were interested in joining her up West Hunter Canyon.  I agreed to join her since Susan was busy selling one of her husband's trucks and couldn't join me on a walk. I took Sadie and Zeke.  I had just been up the canyon with Susan a week or so earlier, but what I didn't count one was a busy trailhead parking lot.  There were five cars already there when I pulled up.

The Forest Service has closed off Carr Canyon Road and the picnic area, to prevent people from gathering in this time of coronavirus infections.  Now people are exploring lesser-used canyons.  Many were up West Hunter looking for crystals.  I didn't bring a backpack or water for the dogs since there's water in the canyon for them and we would be only hiking around three miles or less.


Ellen had never been up this canyon before so I took her to the old homestead and then up an illegal trail that ends 0.5 mile up a steep hillside.  We came across a covering of periwinkle, perhaps flowers left over from the homestead. She, being a caver, noticed a few mine tailings off the trail, so I agreed to join her in exploring it.  The dogs were in agreement so we went into the mine.  The shaft curved to the right and then ended around the corner, with some kind of black device standing there.  Ellen didn't recognize what it was.  It looked like a heating device.  Illegal border crossers will use mines as shelter at night, but there was no indication of abandoned clothing here.




We didn't stay long in the mine.  We turned around at the end and existed and continued up the steep trail only to come across another mine.  This higher mine was less accessible and we did not explore it.

We turned around at the end of the trail, where a fallen pine tree crosses the trail.  The old Mexican blanket on top of a upturned branch is no longer there. We skidded along the steep hillside, but the thick prickly shrubbery kept us from wanting to explore more and we descended back on the trail

We met a group of four hikers here near Hunter Springs.  Sadie didn't want to bushwhack so we had no option but to go back via the trail.


We explored a few more trails but turned around when they faded.  I didn't want to explore anymore as I still  had to walk the other two dogs later.  Ellen and I had hiked 2.84 miles .

Two hours later I took all four dogs down the maintenance road.  It was in the 60s and perfect for the dogs to walk in, especially for Minne and the pond.  But smoke further north had me intrigued,  Was someone burning brush or was that another fire? When I got closer I saw a Forest Service fire truck.  A man on his ATV had come up and told me that this was not a practice round or a  controlled burn, and another FS worker said this was the second time in two weeks that someone has set fire in this area.  It was breezy out and there were a few hotspots still burning, but now I knew there were fire fighters keeping the fire under control.  I didn't want to endanger my dogs' paws so I returned to the car.  We had done another 2.48 miles.




Saturday, March 28, 2020

Joe's Canyon and the Yaqui Trail to the border

Distance: 7.2 miles
Elevation:
Significance: Southern most section of the Arizona Trail, vistas

This was the very first hike that Kevin and I did in Arizona, back in December 2003.  It's the only trail within the Coronado National Monument. We hiked it with my sister Alex and traipsed up the canyon after freshly-fallen snow.    I last did this trail  with a small group of women from the Sierra Vista Hikers about a year ago.  We took the park shuttle to Montezuma's Pass and hiked one-way back to the visitor's center.   Today's hike was an out-and-back hike.                                       

Today's weather was cool and breezy, with a temperature range of 41F-66F.   I hiked this with members of the Huachuca Hiking Club: SteveS, Barry, JohnS, Rod.  No dogs are allowed in the park.  We got started at 7:40am.    The trail begins across the street from the Visitor's Center, off the road to the picnic area.  It quickly climbs up into the narrow canyon.


It's an uphill trek from the visitor's center to Yaqui Ridge.  The park has cancelled any shuttle rides because of the coronavirus so we had no other option but walking it this way.  It's steep but very scenic to the pass, switchbacking among Arizona Wh.te Oak and manzanitas before reaching the grassy ridge and the rocky hillsides of the southern slopes.  This view is only visible along the ridge.  One can hike a short trail to Coronado Peak, but this view is not visible from there.  One can see houses on the Mexican side


One can see the Coronado Cave as one ascends the trail. There was still water trickling in the drainage, and I'm sure after heavy rain this water flow down the hillside is spectacular.  It's 1.5 miles to the ridge and despite the open exposure, the winds weren't too bad as we now had views of the south and the border.  The rest of the flora on the hike was dry and drab.



My only disappointment is that there were few flowers out.  I didn't see any flora of significance until we got on the mile-long Yaqui trail that descends to the border.  Here I saw penstemon and fairy dusters and chollas starting to bloom.  No ocotillo here were in bloom.

We rested here on the border.  No sign of border construction is here.  The old concertina wire fence is still the main border.  Also missing was any sign of illegal migration.  We saw no discarded clothing or backpacks, items that were very common along the border when we first moved here in 2004.  This part of the border is kept under tight surveillance via motion sensors and from the aerostat flying over Fort Huachuca.



Rod and I sat on the bench facing Mexico while Barry sat on the border marker and Steve and John walked around.  I ate a few tangerines from my stache.  We didn't see anyone on this hike until a family of eight arrived as we were starting on our return hike, and shortly after that a trail-running couple.  At the intersection of the Yaqui trail with the Joe's Canyon trail, we met four more hikers, along with their terrier.  The lone man in this group was Canadian now working in Tucson for a telescope in Chile.  Talk about a remote work site!

From this intersection we had two more miles to go, and these were all downhill.  John and Barry went on ahead while Rod, Steve and I chatted with the four hikers.  We met three more hikers in that final mile from the Bisbee Muleteam.  We stopped and chatted with them as well. We all got back to our cars in 4:10 hours.  We chatted some more and then departed.  No one even suggested going out to eat because of the coronavirus and the focus on social distancing of six feet.

I got home at 1pm.  The confirmed coronavirus cases were all the news again today, with the day ending with the United States now claiming 124,386 confirmed cases with 2191 deaths,  (Arizona now has 773 cases with 15 deaths and globally we are at 661,209 cases and 30,815 deaths).  Talks are now of placing New York, New Jersey and Connecticut in lock-down, but now we are seeing numbers rise quickly in New Orleans, Detroit and Chicago.  Will Arizonans be told to lock down as well?  We are still a month away from our apex.

I had a late lunch when I got home, and again at 2:45pm took the pack down to the river.  This time we walked 2.5 miles, and 0.8 miles of that was waiting for Susan and Allie to arrive.

***

New York52,318269728
New Jersey11,124125140
Michigan4,65947111
California4,64312101
Washington4,31057189
Massachusetts4,2576244
Florida4,0371955
Illinois3,4912847
Louisiana3,31571137
Pennsylvania2,7512134
Georgia2,4462379
Colorado2,0613644
Texas2,052727
Connecticut1,5244333
Ohio1,4061225
Tennessee1,373206
Indiana1,2321831
Maryland9921610
Wisconsin9891713
North Carolina93594