I started shortly after the sun rose, in the cool shade. I passed a roadside memorial adorned with fake flowers, lots of broken glass and some roadside trash, and got to the trailhead shortly after 8am. There was only one car in the parking lot as I began the rocky trail, but noted one man ahead of me wearing jeans and a black leather jacket. I eventually caught up to him at the first cave, a badly graffitied cave with views south into the city. Once he met Zeke he looked more at ease and we began to chat. He was Jose from Juarez, who comes here to hike because it's safer here than in Juarez, although the drug shootings have tapered off some since the 2012. He wore his black hair in a manbun, something I see a lot of Hispanic boys wear at the high school. When I asked him what restaurant to recommend, he first mentioned "L and J" restaurant, although he added that there were plenty of great restaurants in El Paso and even cheaper ones in Juarez.
Jose turned around at the first cave and I went on. The trail gets very steep beyond the cave and one must use all four apendages to push oneself uphill. Zeke struggled along a few rocks, having to run around barriers to catch up with me. I stopped to allow him to get caught up. I still had no idea how far I would make it, knowing that there is a boulder near the top that one must use the attached chains to use. Would Zeke be able to find a detour? I decided to go as far up as possible.
McKelligon canyon opens up as one gains altitude. The early sun emphasized the air pollution over Juarez. I struggled to get to the ridgeline. The trail sofar is marked with blue tin circles, then by blue dots, but there are so many unmarked trails that verge off the main trail. It's easy to get off trail.
Most hikers I met on this section climb up to the ridgeline and hang out at the two higher caves here. I went on, slowly gaining in distance but realizing my age is slowing me down. To rate this trail as "hard" is an understatement. One must be in good physical condition and not be easily weakened by heights. I was very concerned about slipping and injuring myself.
I only made it two miles up this trail. Just as the trail gains some levity, the chains begin. There was no way to get around this bald boulder. I turned around here and instead climbed up to a nearby cave and sat there, giving Zeke his rest, snacks, and water. This cave makes a nice destination, but the graffiti is annoying.
There were more people going up the trail as I began my descent. The ones I met knew about the chains and turn around at the ridgeline. Others climb up the more southern peak with radio towers to explore the caves there. The large group of rock climbers created a back-up of people sliding and slowing moving downhill. I had to divert around the first cave (where I had chatted with Jose) so that Zeke would feel comfortable. I enjoyed the challenge of this hike, but now my calves were sore and Zeke was visibly tired.
The last two miles were on McKelligon Drive. People were still walking along this road, including a young couple with an infant strapped around its father and covered by a blanket. I congratulated the couple for getting out and exercising, even though the woman said "He's killing me!" with making her walk.
My first goal back at the Honda was to try the restaurant that Jose had recommended. When I Googled "Best Mexican Restaurant in El Paso," quite a few came up, but I was able to locate the correct one by its side street. A group of panhandlers tried to convince me to get my Honda washed when I pulled into am empty parking space with shade for Zeke. A stray dog ambled past diners sitting outside.
Turns out this restaurant that Jose recommended is located across a cemetery and is very popular, meaning that parking is tough to find in the neighborhood and the building, built in 1927, is old and stuffy. I walked into a cramped, dark and crowded restaurant but found an empty seat at the bar where I quickly ordered chicken mole enchiladas and was talked into a tall dark lager.
Service was fast and so was the food. I could have gone without the large mug of beer (which ended up costing $8.50!) and started a conversation just before leaving with the Mexican sitting next to me, who turned out to be a big Trump supporter. He defended his argument well, stating that under Obama his health insurance was taken away for others while he had to pay more for himself and his family. I would rate my dining experience here a solid 4 out of 5 stars. The stuffy air inside drops the rating one star. I'd come back, but I would skip the beer.
I left the restaurant feeling bloated. The meal was very good but it was too much. I needed to walk around some more just to be more at ease. I can't sleep when I'm feeling bloated. I finished the night with a drive along Scenic Drive, the hillside road with views south into Juarez and the lights that spread out to the horizon. This is a popular drive for people who want to enjoy the sunset. The lights far into Juarez are mesmerizing. One day I hope to explore that city, when I feel the drug war has calmed down.
I spent the night on the Northeast side of El Paso, near Fort Bliss. Gasoline at a Murphy's was a mere $1.87/gallon, the cheapest in the area. Most of the stations in the EP area are selling gas at around $2.gallon. (It is $2.44 back in Hereford, AZ)
No comments:
Post a Comment