Saturday, November 30, 2019

Franklin Mountain State Park (El Paso, TX)

https://tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/franklin-mountains/map
https://tpwd.texas.gov/publications/pwdpubs/media/park_maps/pwd_mp_p4501_124d.pdf

Franklin Mountain State Park (FMSP) is the largest urban park within city limits, according to its website, but it doesn't feel urban.  The Tom May unit of the park is on the outskirts of the city along the Woodrow Bean TransMountain Drive, (aka the TransMountain Freeway; TX375).   The mountain range north of ElPaso is part of the FMSP, and there are trails off the Freeway one can access, but hikers must still pay the $5 day use fee.

I hadn't been to this park in over ten years, when Sadie was a pup.  Weather was breezy and overcast, ideal for trekking on these mostly treeless, rocky peaks.  What held me back was having Minnie with me.  What to do? My only option was to hike a few short trails, with breaks inbetween to check in on Minnie. She spends most of her time sleeping and snoring now, so staying in a warm car is ideal for her.

The park opens at 8am and closes at 5pm in the winter.  And when the park says it closes, the rangers aren't kidding. "Closes" means the front gate is locked and any late returness are S.O.L.  Anyone still in the park after hours will be locked in, including those in the campground.  There are signs all over the park reminding visitors that the "Park closes at 5pm. "  The signs should also mention that the gates lock as well.

I entered the park at 9am.  There was a line of cars, rather surprising for how cold it was.  I was bundled in both my thick Hoosier sweater and my Marmot rain coat.  I wasn't sure which trails I would explore.  I just wanted to check things out first and then make a decision.

My first stop was along the Upper Sunset Trail.  The trail lives up to its name, with expansive views of the valley to the west.  The trail follows the ridgeline for a mile, making for a nice two-mile exposed hike.  The only trouble is, the sun sets after park closure.  Walking in from the TransMountain Highway is the only option, but there are better options for views.  Just chose a trail that goes higher into the peaks! https://www.theoutbound.com/texas/hiking/hike-the-upper-sunset-trail-at-franklin-mountains-sp

The dogs sniffed around and Minnie seemed very curious about the smells.  But both dogs were offleash at that moment, and I didn't want to fall wrath of any pissed off Texas park ranger.  Minnie was limping anyway, another sign to give her a break and rest in the warm car.  It was only 50F and grey overcast.

I saw a line of people hike up a steep trail a few miles away.  Curious to what trail that was, I drove over to that trailhead.  These people were hiking up the even shorter Aztec Cave Trail, a 0.70-mile rocky path to three holes in the rock.  I wouldn't call them caves, but they did a good job keeping the wind out.  This is a popular trail for both dogs and humans, and all dogs were obediently on leash.  One dog and dog owner I met and chatted to was Johnny and his Malinoi-GSD dog "Bugs."  Bugs was in training for a service dog

Elevation gain is only 400'.  I didn't find this "moderate" rated trail hard at all.  What was annoying were the many large rocks at the start.  These large rocks seem to be at all the trailheads, as if they were blasted from the mountainside and rolled downhill to prevent further erosion. This mountain range was once heavily mined for tin, the only dedicated tin mines in the country, so the many rocks make sense.

Hiking up to the caves took a half hour.  Then I rested in the caves to get away from the wind, and to chat with several others coming up.  People of all ages were coming up this morning, from young children to elderly parents. I rested some more to give the slower people descending some space, and then it was our turn to scramble downhill.  I met Johnny and Bugs going up for a second time.  "I lost one of my gloves!" said Johnny, but his second climb to the caves proved futile; he never found his lost glove.

Minnie was resting comfortably in the back of the Homda, taking up as usual half the area.  That dog loves to stretch out while she sleeps.  I guess stretching out helps her snore louder.  She didn't seem bothered by our absence.

Not wanting to leave the park just yet, I opted for more exploring at the West Cottonwood Trailhead.  This is one hike I did with Sadie back in 2009 and a great summer hike.  From this parking lot one can access multiple trails, including Mundy's Gap and the Tin Mines hike.  The parking lot was getting crowded.  I knew I couldn't hike all the way to Mundy's Gap, that prominent switchback up the mountain.  Instead, I chose the much shorter (and more gentler) Agave Loop trail, a two-mile loop with decent views of the valley.  If the first half mile hadn't been slowed down by the rocks on the trail, this would have been a very enjoyable loop.  the only people I encountered on this loop were rock climbers scaling Sneed's Cory
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Texas/West_Texas/Franklin_Mountains_State_Park/

Today's visit to FMSP was only a taste of what the park has to offer.  I could have explored some more, but I also wanted to get more mileage on my drive home.  I will have to come back for a dedicated weekend of hiking to hike the higher, longer trails.  Perhaps I will come back over the three-day MLK weekend in January and bag Franklin Mountain  (7192'), a seven-mile out-and-back trail with expansive views of Juarez (and then finish off a day's hiking at a local brewpub!).

The rest of the day was anticlimactic.  I stopped at the Spotted Dog Brewpub in Las Cruces, 27 miles from the FMSP, and had some very good beers.  This brewpub is one of the three top breweries I probed on this mini-roadtrip.  The other good one was a few miles from the Spotted Dog, the Ice Brewing Company.

http://www.spotteddogbrewery.com/about-us
The Spotted Dog is in an old gas station/garage at 2920 Avenida de Mesilla.  It has a front patio and a side patio, both dog friendly.  It was cold out, 58F, so both dogs rested in the Honda in the back parking lot, under the shade of a large mesquite tree.  I walked in and was immediately impressed with the line-up of wheat beers, ales, and stouts.  All four beers in my flight were well-rounded, and in the end I ordered a Cerveza (5.4% ABV) with my massive chicken grande burrito.  That burrito, served over double-fried fries, is enough for two meals, the server warned me, and she was not joking!  I would rate this meal as one of my top three on this road trip.  Nevermind the endless buckets of peanuts!

I chatted with a local older man, Alan, who stood at the counter the entire time I was there.  He told me some stories about the owners and brewers.  The brewery has been opened since 2014.  One of the first brewers is now brewing for Ice Brewing, another very good brewery three miles away that I visited next.  This brewery has a much bigger and spacious tap room and also offers varied beers.  Both breweries are rated as the top two best breweries in Las Cruces, and I will concur with that rating.  I will definitely be back!

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