Friday, June 19, 2009

Hiking Harney Peak in the Black Hills

2009
“It’s going to be a warm sunny day!” said the server at breakfast. “The first sunny day in a month!” The weather channel proved her words, whereas places elsewhere were still reeling from the storms of eastern South Dakota and western Minnesota from two days ago.
It was a perfect day for a hike and I was itching to get a few miles in my hiking boots. Today’s high was predicted to reach 77F in Rapid City, almost 15F cooler than it was yesterday in Pierre.
I wasn’t sure where I was going, so I tried Custer State Park first. On my way there, though, I stopped in the Black Elk Wilderness headquarters where the ranger, Ginger, enthusiastically recommended several good, moderate hikes of between 6-10 miles. Her first recommendation was Harney Peak, which at 7242’ is the highest peak east of the Rocky Mountains. At seven miles, a decent work-out with a view.
We got to the trailhead on the far northwestern section of the state park, paid the $6 weekly park fee (per person fee; dogs are free) and pulled into a vacant spot next to a car from Texas with a canoe on its roof.
It turned out to be Take-your-dog-on-a-hike day as we passed many groups hiking with dogs. Sadie pulled on her leash and barked at all the dogs, although she was friendly to people who came up to her gently. She did very well on the hike. And when we got to the look-out tower, where most of the hikers gathered, I went out on the exposed rocks with her for some solitude. Several other groups thought the same.
Goldenrods gave way to dandelions, iris, columbine and yellow lupine as I gained in elevation. Chipmunks scurried around us, a strange bird call echoed around us and in the water below frogs squaked. I could see in all directions: crags, badlands and dark green hilltops of dead or dying pines. What was causing so many of the pines in the Black Elk Wilderness to die off? They are potential wild fire kindle.
Then cold storm clouds pushed on ahead, I got cold, and when a woman nearby said “I felt a raindrop!“ I panicked and began my descent back to the van. I was already cold from the sweat now drying off
More people were coming up as we descended, large groups with many children. Several groups of hikers took a liking to Sadie, telling me what a beautiful dog she was.
“She’s very friendly, too!” I added.
The hike took us 3.5 hours. Sadie was tired, I was rejuvenated. I want to do a decent hike everyday I’m in the Black Hills.
A bus load of small children from Pine Ridge reservation pulled into the parking lot as I left.
From the trailhead I went to the Crazy Horse Monument that was started I 1947 by a Polish-American sculptor. When he died I 1982 his wife and seven of his ten children continued overseeing the blasting of the monument. Crazy Horse’s head is done and the top of his extended right arm has been blasted free, but there is still the painted outline of his horse in the rock.
Admission to this monument is $10 which initially took me by surprise. And all the attendants at the entrance were White. I was expecting to see more Sioux employees. And the bus ride to the bottom of Crazy Horse mountain is another $4.20.
I watched the 20-minute movie about the making of this monument and learned why the admission is so high: the family takes no federal or state endowments to build this monument. All expenses come from park admissions and private donations. That explains the high entrance fees.
Elders from the Lakota tribes picked this location in the Black Hills for this project. Crazy Horse is pointing toward his land, but this monument represents all Native peoples. A lot has still to be constructed, and at the rate the monument is getting completed, I won’t live to see it completed. But I left this place much enlightened.
Artists still live on this property owned by the sculptor’s family. A Native American heriage center is also on the grounds, as well as vendors from the Sioux nation. I got to meet the designer of the t-shirt I bought yesterday I Chamberlain, and his wife Misty is the great-great-great granddaughter of Sitting Bull. I could easily have dropped more money at the Native American vendors.

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