I awoke in time to watch the sun rise over Wounded Knee, but was still too tired to get up. Jerald was right: it was quiet all around me and traffic was minimal. The dog from yesterday was gone, and after a quick camp shower, I was gone, too.
I drove north through the rez, heading toward the southern entrance to the Badlands. Trailers were scattered throughout the rez, and small farm patches showed up as well. Some signs warned tourists to KEEP out of the sundance areas. Cows and horses grazed over rolling hills. I listened to KILA radio, "Voice of the Lakota Nation" as I drove the countryside. (I was able to pick up this small station's signal all the way to the Badlands) To my surprise, there really where pine trees here, sprouting up in the small draws. The further north I drove the more prominent the badlands became, until the green and yellow hills gave way to grey alkaline dead mounds.
I stopped briefly at the Badland's Visitor's center and talked with the ranger and read some of the Oglala history. A second ranger was vacuuming the room, drowning the flute music. Yes, assured me the younger ranger, half of all entrance fees are given to the Sioux tribes. Since most national parks are on lands once held sacred to various Native American tribes, this is the right thing to do. But tribes don't get enough of this money.
The southwestern part of the badlands is jointly managed by the NPS and the Sioux tribe. This was once an aerial gunnery range and vistors were warned not to pick up any metallic objects.
I was now on BIA Route 2 driving westward, a wide dusty gravel road. I could see the distant Black Hills. A few birds showed up: a yellow meadowlark sang from an electric wire, a smaller black-white bird from concertina wire. Pronghorn antelope pranced in the Windcave National Grasslands and one very dead cow, still in rigor mortis, adorned one range near Beaver Creek. Few people were out in this part of the country.
I was now back in the Black Hills and it was approaching noon. I was itching for a decent hike but the clouds didn't want to cooperate. As soon as we settled for French Creek Natural Area in Custer State Park (he found gold here in 1874) it began to thunder and then the rain came, although it was still faint rain. Darnit! I was so in the mood to hike in a remote area and to have Sadie off leash for a change. The second trail, Iron Creek trail, looked lovely but Sadie did not want to ford the swiftly-moving creek.
After ten minutes along the creek we turned around and drove on. Now it was really raining hard. Might as well see Mount Rushmore, I thought, and joined a few thousand others along USHighway 16A to the monument. This was now the Norbeck Scenic Byway, driving through pigtail tunnels and steep switchbacks while the rain came and went. I stoppd to gawk at the monument and to take pictures. After seeing Crazy Horse yesterday, this monument looks small!
Mount Rushmore was not one of the national parks offering free admission this weekend. At $10 a car I was in no mood to contend with other crowds and drove on through the Black Hills national forest. Everyone who was visiting the Black Hills this weekend was in this part of the forest. Rock climbers, equestrians, dogs, kids, RVs were all out in the parking lots. I did stop at the profile view of George Washington, where once again half of the Black Hills visitors were parked.
I finally found a decent trail at Horsethief Lake and hiked Trail#14 for an hour out, an hour back I wanted solitude. "You're not going to find it this weekend!" said one rock climber at the Wrinkled Rock trailhead lot. He was right, so I left that area to come to Horsethief, one trailhead further west. It was 4pm and I had two good hours of hiking in. As soon as I heard people, I had Sadie on a leash.
A couple with a curious-looking little Shits-Poo dog ran toward Sadie. I didn't want any anger with anyone and held her tightly, telling her to "be nice" but both dogs wanted to get closer. The Shit-Poo came nose to nose with Sadie who by now was with her camelback. The couple kept yelling at their dog to stop, come back, don't go. To no avail.
The Shit-Poo owners yelled at their dog to "Stay!" (like that was doing any good) but dind't put her on a leash. I finally yelled at Sadie
"Sadie, that dog is not your dinner!" and the man quickly scopped up the little Shit-
Poo and carried it past us. I finally learned what I have to say to get other dog owners to put their dogs on leashes.
After the Shit-Poo we had some solitude. We were now climbing along granite crags among healthy Ponderosas and aspens and beeches. The fresh rain softened the trail in parts, and the nearby creek was swollen. This was a horese-free watershed.
I had no idea where I was going (I failed to study the map at the trailhead) but turned around after an hour when more thunder rolled over. I didn't want to be too far from the van if a storm broke out. It drizzled lightly. My large floppy hat kept my head dry. Sadie stayed close to me, but was alert to new smells: a reddish small animal darted across our trail and into the brushline. The sun was now coming out, casting its last strong rays across the tall pines and bringing the birds out one more time to sing.
The Horsethief Trail was a lovely trail that I would have enjoyed finishing, but today's weather didn't want to cooperate. Maybe tomorrow I can attempt a longer hike in the northern Black Hills, such as Crow Creek Trail, Bear Butte or anything around 10 miles.
I was now tired of fighting rains, looking for a decent trail, and dealing with traffic and congestion. Hill City was another decent town but a "live" shoot-out off Main Street drew a large crowd around Main Street. I see these kind of 1880s reenactments all the time in Tombstone, AZ, they no longer appeal to me. I opted instead to drive back to Rapid City and call it a night. Dinner tonight was at Hardee's with two double cheese burgers. I gave Sadie the extra patties which she devoured. In the morning I'm going to walk Main and St Joseph's STreets and walk te Presidential sights. For a town of 67,000, Rapid City is a fun, lively town. But one must be aware of the many one-way streets!
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